The nft command

List Rules

nft list ruleset

Trace All Trafiic

nft add chain filter trace_chain { type filter hook prerouting priority -301\; }
nft add rule filter trace_chain meta nftrace set 1
 
nft monitor trace
 
nft delete chain filter trace_chain

Configuration

https://francis.begyn.be/blog/nixos-home-router is a great example if you are familiar with iptables, but note that you can name the tables and chains differently. https://pavluk.org/blog/2022/01/26/nixos_router.html is another more complicated setup.